A Beer You Can Subscribe to: Kölsch

Kranz of Kölsch at Brauhaus Putz

The last post I wrote went into some detail of the American influence on the German beer landscape, so I thought it would only be appropriate to discuss a German beer style that many American craft brewers are embracing: Kölsch (pronounced “coalsch”). The Oxford Companion to Beer describes Kölsch as, "a pleasant bridge from bland, industrial lagers to more flavorful traditional beers." This is a beer that is overall hoppier than other traditional German styles which is probably why hop worshipping American craft brewers are adopting it. Kölsch, at around 4.8%abv, typically served cold and in a small .2 liter glass called a Stange (pronounced "staan-gah, German for "rod", because of the straight, narrow shape of the glass) is one of the original "session" beers.

Dom of Cologne

The term kölsch is a controlled appellation protected by the Kölsch Konvention (doesn't that sound like a fun convention?) and is restricted to 20 breweries in and around the city of Cologne (the English for Köln) which lies on the banks the Rhine River. The Konvention defines the beer as a "light, highly attenuated, hop-accentuated, clear top-fermenting Vollbier." This is a beer that is characterized by a lightly fruity yeast presence, both in taste and aroma, as well as a slight present hoppy bitterness in some varieties to a much more pronounced one in others. The hops that are used are not the hops that contribute a hop character that most Americans associate with a hoppy beer (i.e. aggressively bitter, citrusy  or "skunky"), these are what are referred to as German noble hops (Hallertau, Tettnang, Spalt or Herbrucker) bringing an herbal, almost minty bitterness to the palette. Although this is a top-fermented beer, meaning an ale yeast is used, it is typically fermented at a cooler than normal ale temperature and then lagered (meaning it is stored at a cool temperature to give the beer a bit milder flavor and cleaner aroma) for at least a month.

The history of Kölsch is a rich one that mirrors other regionally produced food items such as Parmesan cheese and Champagne, sharing a Protected Geographical Indication. Although the modern day kölsch, as it's brewed today, is a relatively new style (relatively new for Germany) that according to the German Beer Institute goes back about 100 years, there are recorded accounts of beer being brewed in Cologne for over 1,000 years. In 1250, the brewing office of Cologne began controlling the production of beer and in 1396 representatives of the brewers' guild founded the "Kölner Brauer-Kooperation" which has been around since. During the late 1800s, imported pale lager from Bohemia began cropping up in the region along the Rhine River, prompting the brewers of Cologne to band together and brew their own pale beer. This was probably when it adopted its current flavor profile as being a hoppy but dry golden beer.

The coaster with pencil marks indicating how many I subscribed to 

Kölsch waiters, called Köbes in German, in the traditional bars that serve the beer are encouraged to speak the local dialect, also called "Kölsch" and to use rough, unrefined language, which might include crude jokes with the customers (meaning there's no formal Sie, only Du even when they are speaking to a 90 year old). In keeping with serving tradition, the Köbes in such pubs will also continue to exchange empty Kölsch glasses with new ones unprompted until customers leave their glass half full or place the coaster on the glass to signal that they no longer wish to be served. The Köbes carry full the Stanges of the beer to customers in a special circular tray called a Kranz (German for "wreath"). They are then ready to replace any empty glasses immediately and mark your coaster with a pencil, which is why it's said you don't so much buy the beer but have a subscription to it.   

Here are some suggestions of how to enjoy this great German beer, both in Cologne and in the US: 

Traditional Kölsch Bar in Cologne's Altstadt

Malzmühle (Heumarkt 6, 50667 Köln, Deutschland) www.muehlenkoelsch.de/

Mühlen Kölsch at Malzmühle

This great example of a Kölsch bar is within a 5 minute walk from the famous Dom. You enter the Malt Mill through one of two revolving doors, the left one leads you to the restaurant/bar that turns out traditional German fare which pairs well with the beer, and the other opens to a more straight-ahead drinker's den. They both serve Mühlen Kölsch which is a perfect example of the the style: clear straw color with a slight bone-white head, slightly maltier than some other varieties with a great noble hop aroma and taste with a clean, dry finish.

Päffgen Brauhaus (Friesenstraße 64, 50670 Köln, Deutschland)

This is a great example of a traditional Kölsch brewpub, replete with a "Beichtstuhl" (confessional) and "Thekenschaf" (bar sheep). This bar sheep stands on the bar and keeps things in order. Standard, well prepared German food helps the cold Päffgen Kölsch go down. 

Traditional Kölsch Bar in Cologne but outside of Altstadt

Brauhaus (K.A.) Pütz (Engelbertstraße 67, 50674 Köln, Deutschland)

This restaurant/bar is about a 20 minute walk from the city center located in the New Town South neighborhood, but well worth the trek. Real gemütlichkeit (German word for coziness) here with wooden tables, low ceilings and a lively staff who practice the Köbes attitude. They also serve Mühlen Kölsch, which is my favorite of the style as you could probably guess.        

Päffgen Brauhaus

Not-So-Traditional Kölsch

Ale Mania- Rheinländer is a modern German take on the traditional style. It's 4.8% abv, unfiltered and much darker in color, with an almost orange hue to it, and a huge hop nose to it.  Made with Hercules, Pearl, Sapphire and Spalter it's not the typical noble hop nose, much more like an American hoppy beer but has a characteristically dry finish that does not linger and makes it highly drinkable. Check out this beer from Bonn's premier craft brewer. 

Traditional Kölsch Available in the U.S. 

Reissdorf Kölsch or Gaffels Kölsch both are widely available in throughout the world and are great examples of the style. Evenly balance, hop/malt flavor and aroma with soft, bitter finish. They are great in warm weather but can be enjoyed year-round. 

American Kölsch-style Beer  

Jackie O's -Ja, Bitte At 4.9 %abv, this is a great example of an American brewery turning out a traditional German style, perfect for have a few cold ones, it will have you saying "Yes, Please! (yep, I went there). 

Captain Lawrence-Captain's Kölsch

This is another great example of an American take on the style, available in both bottles and draft and if you are lucky it will be served in a traditional Stange.